Bangkok has so many weird and wonderful sights. Skinned, headless chickens hang from eatery windows. I nearly had a heart attack when I saw a wax monk meditating  in a store window, amongst hundreds of Buddhist statues. It looked so incredibly real, I almost wondered if maybe he had been embalmed. Every detail, from the slight stubble on his cheek, looked so life-like.

People nap everwhere – on the floor, on benches, in their food cart. I saw a man sawing a block of ice; another was selling lottery tickets, and other sold keys of every imaginable size and shape.

Cats retreat to the temples for shade. They are tiny and skeletal – bigger than the rats I’ve seen. I love the serenity of the temples, the sound of windschimes, the smell of incense, people kneeling to pray, or getting a blessing from a monk in exchange for a donation or food parcel. (They call it making merit).

A welcome retreat from crazy Bangkok. This shouts at you from billboards, blaring Thai pop music, muzzled street dogs, and the endless roar of traffic. It’s a city that never sleeps.

Beautiful temples

My favourite temple was Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan. I loved the maze we walked, my barefeet touching the cold tiles, Buddha statues in various poses lined along the walls.

After a steep climb, we reached the top of temple where we could see the red, shimmering roofs of temples, dilapidated buildings of the old city and hi-rises of new Bangkok. At the foot of the stupa were enclosed Buddha relics, garlands of marigolds, and wind chimes with peoples’ names.

We walked through the nearby market crammed with Buddhist and Indian paraphernalia, and hundreds of amulets, worn for spiritual protection.

I loved this second temple on this property. I caught my breath at the big golden Buddha, so serene-looking. A skinny, chainsmoking monk blew smoke rings in the corner. Aren’t Buddhists supposed to give up all attachments? I loved the high ceilings, pillars, and intricate wall murals, and watching people patiently restore them with small brushes on scaffoldings.

I loved the enormous, heavy doors to the temple with their ornate carvings, guarded by sculptures of mythical lions, phoenix and scowling Thai warriors. I enjoyed the neat gardens and bonsai trees, the gold and mother of pearl inlay of the temples, the student monks writing at their desks. There’s a grand, medieval-looking temple with black spires that is lit up at night.

Eau de sewer

The stench in Bangkok is persistent: Fumes from cars, food, sewerage, heat. It takes some getting used to. I stupidly brough a few sweaters with me which I have now donated because you can walk around wearing shorts and a t-shirt, even at night.

We went to a small restaurant run by middle-aged Thai lady. There was no menu; you just point to the food you want buffet-style. The eatery is called Arois (delicious). Awards and framed magazine articles hang on walls. I braved a plate of ‘yam’ (spicy Thai salad). It was very, very hot. A Thai customer laughed at me when he saw me fanning my mouth.

The owner felt sorry for us and gave us sandwich cakes and iced fruit to ease the burn. Some cafes only serve one type of dish, for instance noodle shops only serve noodles, and these are the cheapest bet.

The customers watched a Thai soapie on small TV, laughing. They love their Thai soapies, which always look so dramatic. They also love slapstick comedy with those weird sound-effects. Thais are very comical.

The Golden Mount

We walked to another temple called the Golden Mount which takes you up a winding staircase, overlooking Bangkok. I loved the sound of gongs echoing into the distance; the colourful ribbons tied on spirit trees where they believe spirits live, and are so sacred they won’t cut them down. Worshippers dunk orchids in water and bless themselves, hanging wind chimes in the trees.

Where to eat in Bangkok

People eat everywhere here. It’s a national pastime! Thai schoolgirls watch TV on side of street while snacking on noodles from food cart.

We went for dinner at a restaurant in Banglamphu district called Thip Samai. Plastic chairs and tables spilled onto the street; rats ran past half-open sewers. The eatery was packed and we had to share a table. The sound of chatter, the hiss and steam of the wok frying noodles, the clatter of plates and cutlery, was overwhelming.

I loved watching the cooks, in full view of the public, throwing noodles of different sizes and colours into the wok, adding spices thaht make your eyes burn, and wrapping everything into small takeaway parcels.

Bangkok is still manic at night, with lots of traffic and shops still open. My husband went for a haircut at 9pm. This eatery is famous for its pad thai – fried noodles with egg, shrimp and spices. Yummy. And it cost only 30 baht. You eat the noodles with chopsticks, and other dishes use a fork and spoon. You garnish the dish yourself with beansprouts, lemongrass, fish sauce, chillie sauce, even sugar.

There’s another popular noodle dish with egg covering it. People break hold in middle and add spices, sugar, chillies, and ground peanuts. Our table neighbors laughed at us when they saw us watching them, trying to figure out what to do!

I definitely recommend sampling as many Thai dishes as you can while you are here!

Filed under: Travel